Melania Trump’s Iconic Inaugural Gown and Hat: A Nod to Privacy and Power

At the United States Capitol Rotunda, Melania Trump stood behind President-elect Donald Trump as he took the oath of office, her face almost entirely obscured by the wide brim of her wool boater-style hat. Designed by New York-based milliner Eric Javits, the hat added an austere touch to her sleek, military-inspired outfit. Trump’s navy silk wool double-breasted coat, cinched at the waist, was paired with bare legs and stiletto heels, further accentuating the minimalist, structured look.

The ensemble was designed by Adam Lippes, a New York-based designer known for dressing public figures like Joe Biden and Michelle Obama. Trump had previously worn Lippes on several occasions, including a shirtdress by the designer in New York last summer. Beneath the tailored coat, she wore a silk wool pencil skirt and an ivory silk crepe blouse with a sharp neckline, all meticulously hand-sewn by Lippes’ team. “The tradition of the presidential inauguration embodies the beauty of American democracy, and today we had the honor to dress our first lady, Mrs. Melania Trump,” Lippes said in a statement. “Her outfit was created by some of America’s finest craftsmen, and I take great pride in showcasing such work to the world.”

Despite the coldest inauguration ceremony in 40 years, the only sign of the chill was Trump’s black leather gloves. But it was the hat that truly captured attention. “With her face half-hidden by her hat, Melania remains aloof,” said Professor Nichola Gutgold, author of Electing Madam Vice President: When Women Run, Women Win, in an email to CNN.

Her appearance, slightly elusive, was in keeping with her style throughout her tenure as first lady from 2017 to 2021. Trump’s fashion evolution included military-inspired dresses and skirt suits in khaki, navy, and gray—garments that conveyed both structure and privacy. “Her silhouettes became long-sleeved, with cinched waists, hard shoulders, and longer hemlines, almost military in vibe. I think that’s because it felt like armor… She underwent four years of intense scrutiny,” said Kate Bennett, a former CNN White House correspondent.

Trump’s carefully structured outfit was starkly contrasted by Jill Biden, who opted for a softer, more relaxed silhouette. Biden’s purple tie-waist overcoat and blouse, designed by Ralph Lauren, echoed a bipartisan tone. Lauren was also responsible for designing Trump’s 2017 powder blue inaugural look, which drew comparisons to Jackie Kennedy.

This time, however, Trump seemed to be diverging from her previous homage to Kennedy’s style. The boater hat evoked a “Queenly aura,” according to Gutgold, while New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman noted that Trump’s appearance was more reminiscent of “a royal family governess than an American first lady.” In 2017, she used fashion to align with Jackie Kennedy’s accessible elegance, but now, her attire seemed more about creating distance—protecting herself with a physical shield from the outside world.

Meanwhile, Usha Vance, wife of the newly sworn-in Vice President JD Vance, appeared to take inspiration from Kennedy’s legacy. She wore a pastel pink cashmere coat dress by Oscar de la Renta, a hue reminiscent of Kennedy’s iconic bubblegum pink ensemble. Priscilla Chan, wife of Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg, was spotted in a 1960s-inspired baby blue twin-set, accented with pearls, a subtle tribute to Kennedy’s style.

Not all attendees followed the fashion playbook, however. Lauren Sanchez, wife of Amazon’s Jeff Bezos, made a bold statement in a white suit worn without a shirt, revealing her matching lingerie-style top. While Melania Trump chose a US designer, Ivanka Trump turned to European fashion, attending the event in a forest green beret-style hat and a Christian Dior bag.

When it came to menswear, the look was more traditional, with most male attendees sporting dark-colored two-piece suits. However, Sen. John Fetterman stood out for his casual choice of shorts and a hooded sweatshirt. President Trump himself wore a broad-shouldered suit with a red-and-blue necktie, while his allies—including his son Donald Jr., Vice President JD Vance, and UFC boss Dana White—chose bright red neckties, a signature look of the Trump brand. Former presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama wore striped and checkered ties, respectively, marking a contrast with the current administration’s signature style.

As the inaugural events moved into the evening, Melania Trump’s fashion was again in the spotlight at the inaugural ball. For the occasion, she wore a strapless white silk dress with thick black bands that zigzagged across her torso and cascaded to the floor. The gown, designed by Hervé Pierre, was a follow-up to the cream dress she wore to the 2017 inaugural balls. Pierre, who has worked for high-end fashion houses like Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera, has a long history of designing for first ladies, including Michelle Obama, Laura Bush, and Hillary Clinton.

“It was clear that Mrs. Trump was gravitating towards a combination of black and white—true to her own style and vision,” Pierre said. “It was an honor to collaborate with her on this dress.”